Riding the wave..

I’ve been riding a wave for 10 months. It’s not bad when I am on top of it. I can get air, see the light and for a moment, I forget. Then, just like that, I drop.. I can’t breath, I’m spinning out of control and can’t get myself upright. The hardest part as I’m clawing at the sand is not to allow myself to go out with the current.